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A Tree Planting Guide for Northwestern Ontario
How do I plant my new tree? Here are some tips!
Option A: Clay Soil (The “Capped” Method)
Clay soil can be tricky because it gets “mushy” when overwatered but “baked” when dry. This method protects the root ball while ensuring water goes exactly where it’s needed.
- The Hole: Dig 2–3x wider than the root ball. Scratch the sides of the hole with a shovel to prevent “glazing” (smooth walls that roots can’t penetrate).
- Preparing the Tree: Prune off any damaged and crossing branches. Remove the root ball from the pot and shave/scratch the roots if they are spiralling around the pot to promote new root growth.
- Planting: Set the tree so the top of the root ball is 2-3 inches above the natural ground level.
- Bone Meal & Soil Amendments: Fill the hole halfway with native soil. This can be mixed with organic soil and/or peat moss to help break up the hard clay. Sprinkle 1–2 cups of bone meal in this middle layer. This is the only fertilizer needed for the first year.
- The Clay Cap: Finish backfilling the hole with native clay soil, but heap it slightly over the root ball area to create a “cap.” This cap should allow excess water to run away from the trunk and keep the hole from filling like a bathtub.
- The Water Ring: Leave a 3-inch open ring of soil directly around the trunk (the “root flare”). This ensures water enters the root system directly rather than sitting against the bark and causing rot.
- Mulching: Apply 2–3 inches of mulch material over the clay cap, but keep the open ring around the trunk clear.
Option B: Sandy Soil (The “Basin” Method)
Since sandy soil drains rapidly, you don’t need a cap; instead, you want to create a “bowl” to trap every drop of water.
- The Hole: Dig 2x wider than the root ball. Mix 20% compost or peat moss into your backfill to help hold moisture.
- Preparing the Tree: Prune off any damaged and crossing branches. Remove the root ball from the pot and shave/scratch the roots if they are spiralling around the pot to promote new root growth.
- Planting: Set the tree perfectly level with the ground.
- Bone Meal: Sprinkle 2–3 cups of bone meal in the top 6 inches of the hole. If you don’t have dogs, you can place this right near the surface before mulching. This is the only fertilizer you will need for the first year.
- The Water Basin: Build a 3-inch high ring of soil (a berm) at the outer edge of the planting hole. This holds water in place so it can soak slowly into the sand.
- Mulching: Use a thick 4-inch layer of mulch to prevent the sun and Zone 3 winds from drying the sand out.
Watering your newly planted tree
Clay Soils
- Watering: Clay holds water longer. Check the soil 2 inches down; if it’s moist, don’t water. Usually, a deep soak once a week is sufficient.
- Mulching: Apply 2–3 inches of coarse mulch . Crucial: Keep mulch 3 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot, which is a high risk in damp clay.
Sandy Soils
Mulching: Use a thicker layer of mulch (3–4 inches) to help keep the soil cool and reduce evaporation.
Watering: Sandy soil dries out fast. Newly planted trees may need water every 2–3 days during the first month, especially in the windy conditions common in Zone 3.
